I feel like I lost a limb this week. I live near a little market town and it’s been through a lot of development of late. Some good, some not so good. Over time independent eateries (a million times better, nicer and tastier) have been heartbreakingly replaced by chains. I am so bored of chain food. I don’t mean to sound depressing or ranting and raving. This is a lament.
Two of the best restaurants in the town – in fact the only two restaurants in town worth eating in – have closed/are closing. Now if you want decent food, that hasn’t come into the premises in plastic wrappers and is swiftly strewn unceremoniously into the microwave before being disguised as “authentic” pasta carbonara, you have to go to a country pub/brasserie/restaurant but whatever they call it, it’s a food hole. I don’t mind this (and I am lucky to have some excellent ones really near) but if you want a quick, edible, exciting lunch, now there is no where to go in town. I will be forever walking around the market square as lost as nutrients in McDonalds.
The Square which was an amazing gastropub and Le Petit Square a delectable French restaurant have been taken from us. I have so many good memories from both of these restaurants and the owners have had them for seven years. Seven years of making people happy and satisfied and free of frozen e-numbers. They have always said they source local ingredients and try to keep the costs down. Le Petit Square was better than food in Paris and both always had meal offers like 2 for £11 or 3 for £15 in case the purse strings were tight at the end of the month. This meant that students like myself could afford good, different and intriguing food.
It’s such a shame and I will miss them both terribly. No more lemon posset, no more Chateaubriand, no more confit shoulder of lamb. Never again can I get my taste buds around their Eggs Benedict, Pan Perdu or Tart Tatin. I know chain restaurants have their place but I wish they wouldn’t displace genuine food. I hope when times improve the owners will open something somewhere again because I can tell you I’ll be first in the queue.
Au revior. It has been a mouthwatering seven years.
All That I’m Eating
Eggs Benedict – The Swan at Newbury 3 of 3
This current trilogy will be rounded off by the consumption of another Eggs Benedict at a restaurant I have been to many times.
Summer is almost upon us. Yes to the sunshine, yes to the balmy summer evenings and yes to Pimms. No to the fact that my bingo wings are only just falling short of smacking me in the face if I have to wave at anyone. I suppose in some ways I am glad I shan’t be having more Eggs Benedict in order to attempt to combat my large posterior. In other ways I am not excited for a summer of cucumber and lettuce surprise. The surprise being there are no calories and henceforth no taste or enjoyment.
Eggs Benedict – Entropy at Leicester 2 of 3
The second instalment of this trio was devoured in a quaint little restaurant in Leicester. Entropy is outside the hustle and bustle of Leicester city centre and in my opinion Leicester is crying out for more restaurants like this one. The head chef worked at The Fat Duck and also The Vineyard at Stockcross so without contemplation it was obvious this was going to be a corker.
It’s just one of those restaurant come pubs that you wish you had a comfortable walking distance from your abode. I was very pleased to discover they have a breakfast menu at the weekend as well as an exquisite regular restaurant menu. They also make their own sourdough bread which comes served on a charming little bread board with bread knife and having been a few times I can tell you it’s worth ordering one. You can even take it away to liven up the weekly bore of work lunches.
To the most important thing. Breakfast. R had the biggest yet cutest English breakfast I’ve ever seen. I find it’s the little things that make the difference. They had cut out little discs for the fried bread and the ingredients were of such high quality.
As with The Almanack I was served one muffin. This time however it was quality and perfection. It was also nice to find the traditional Eggs Benedict with spinach and Parma ham. The muffin was warm and just toasted so it was still slightly crisp as the hollandaise hadn’t had the chance to soak into it. The spinach was spinach, nothing to report but good to know I had consumed a little folic acid first thing in the morning – an added bonus on top of a mouthwatering breakfast. The Parma ham was also as expected and the saltiness was so nice with the metallic wateriness of the spinach.
In contrast to my previous repast, the hollandaise was light, creamy, rich, luscious, buttery and elegant. I knew then and there that a bar had been set, and it had been set high. I just wanted more. The egg was impeccable. The yolk gushed down the side of the dish like it had the Midas touch. I find it hard to see how it could have been improved. How can the previous two dishes both cost £6 and yet be worlds apart?
4.5 out of 5 – I wanted more!
All That I’m Eating
This restaurant has since closed.
Eggs Benedict – The Almanack at Leicester 1 of 3
Eggs Benedict is one of my all time favourite, comfort giving, wonderfully satisfying indulgences. Because of this and as I am sure many other people love this ultimate unbeatable combination, I am going to compare 3 restaurants interpretations of this classic.
The Almanack in Leicester is a relatively new opened establishment. I went soon after it opened and I think at this time they may have been cutting some corners to ease themselves in. Or maybe they are just lazy. Either way, I’ve not been back to try anything else because of the poor effort in the Eggs Benedict department.
The Hare at Lambourn
I am surprised that this exquisite restaurant does not have a Michelin star. The restaurant itself is so tasteful – albeit in a rather remote location that’s neither here nor there. The staff were so attentive and extremely helpful and polite. I cannot say that it is the best Sunday lunch in the world as I have not eaten every Sunday lunch on offer but other than a few onions in my Yorkshire pudding, I cannot think of any way it could be better.
To start with I simply couldn’t choose. You know when you look and go through the menu excluding the things you don’t want. I wanted it all. I ended up having asparagus and brioche with a soft boiled duck egg and hollandaise sauce. I thought a bit of Parma ham would have greatly improved things but nonetheless it was divine.
What can I say about the roast beef? Amazing. Most important thing first; they did not skimp on the ‘jus’ portions. Gravy to those who aren’t pretending to be posher than they actually are but either way just enough, and not too thin, not too thick. Yum. Beef was perfect. They did leave a big lump of fat on but it wasn’t exactly hard to remove being as it was all so tender. I think it’s a bit of a sign if you order beef and they swap your knife for a Samurai sword, however, at The Hare the beef is more like butter.
Roast potatoes just how you want them. So crispy and so soft. Yorkshire pudding was so satisfying to break in to – but a little dry. The parsnip was a work of art it was so beautifully draped over the meal and I don’t know what they did to it but I could eat that and that alone forever more. The vegetables that came to share were nothing special but if they had been ostentatious I think it would have been too overdone.
Pudding was a bit of an issue in that again, it was so hard to choose. I settled for a Trio of Tropical fruit. It was so beautiful. Chargrilled pineapple with a vanillary syrup, mango souffle and blood orange sorbet (I swapped the banana ice cream for the sorbet as I’m picky about the form my banana takes). The tuille around the sorbet was so impressive and really delicious.
I’ll be honest, I am running out of adjectives. It was a great lunch, we ended up being there for two and a half hours. One problem though, don’t advertise petit fours and give me one measly bit of honeycomb please. I know four is a bonus but I expect at least two. I would go again just for the level of service I experienced.
Yum. Yum. Yum. Oh…did I mention it was three courses for £26? Bargain of the century.
All That I’m Eating
The Handmade Burger Co. at Leicester
There are lots and lots (too many if anything) of burgers and burger chains. How does one choose? The Handmade Burger Co. has just five branches in the UK: Birmingham, Leicester, Sheffield, Solihull and Aberdeen. The reason I’m telling you where they are is because if you happen to be in any of these places, you must go.
There were flavour combinations that I would never have considered in a burger and I am so glad I tried the, ‘Milano’, which I suppose you could call the Italian burger. Mozzarella, pesto and a truly delicious burger. Probably not the most adventerous of the burgers on offer but sumptuously satisfying. Fortunately the bread is as nice as the burger and the sides are not a disappointment.
The burgers are handmade as are the chips. They use sour dough bread. They try and source all the ingredients from Britain which I think is no bad thing. I love love love brown chips and in most places the chips are just beyond anaemic before they are served. Here though I was in my element. Delectable.
Not sure if anyone else has this issue but when I get a burger in some of these chains they are just too big. You can’t pick it up no way no how. This one was the perfect size and thickness without it and its contents dribbling all over my chin. They have options for everyone and the atmosphere and setting are very nice.
The one and only problem is that they charge what I consider an extortionate amount for dips – ketchup and mayonnaise are free but if you fancy chilli sauce, garlic mayo or any of the others, you are looking at £1.25 per dip. I didn’t bother. I would only pay that much if it was made from white truffles.
All That I’m Eating
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